Num Anksom Cheik on Mao Tse Tung Boulevard

Banana and Sticky Rice Cakes

Phnom Penh has had an increased wave of power shortages in recent weeks and because I work a further from the richer part of Phnom Penh than most, these happen at random and recently, happen for three hours a day about three times a week. The upside of this has been that I have an excuse to do laps of the surrounding blocks looking for street food that I haven’t yet tried.

Street food vendor - Anksom S'raat

Num anksom cheik are bananas wrapped in a glutinous coconut sticky rice, then boiled in a banana leaf package. They’re popular as an offering to monks, the poor, and your backyard shrine around Khmer New Year; but are delicious regardless of which of the three new years you deign to celebrate. This variant, which my co-workers call anksom s’raat(?), skip the boiling process and head straight onto the barbecue to form a crispier shell.

Location: In the classic Khmer style of economies of agglomeration, you’ll find three or four of these vendors in front of the Chinese Embassy building on Mao Tse Tung Boulevard (between St.173 and 167), selling exactly the same thing.

Meatporn to go on st 432

Dirty roadside meatporn

At about 5:00pm every day, the intersection of street 432 and 163 jams up with both traffic and the smell of barbecuing flesh. This stand does chickens: whole, pieces, heads, feet, and heart or liver kebabs; a few fatty barbecue cuts of pork; and whole quail thrown in for good measure. All grilled over the hot coals and dished up steaming hot into a polystyrene clamshell.

Taste the secret.

I wasn’t in the mood for fowl, so I went for a short rack of pork ribs, beautifully caramelised; served with a take-away pack of limes, salt, pepper, weak chili sauce, Vietnamese coriander (chee krassang tomhom(?)) and a stubby cucumber (3000r). There’s not even the vainest attempt at having seats: so get your meat and try and negotiate a path through the traffic home before your food congeals.

Location: Corner of street 432 and 163, close to Russian Market. You’ll see the smoke signal from about 3pm weekdays and keeps charring until the flesh is sold.

Deep Fried Bananas (Cheik Chien) on St.432


If you’re looking to step into the world of Cambodian street food without stepping into something potentially fatal, deep fried bananas are about as safe and inoffensive as you’ll get. They’re widely available and the only difference in quality seems to be determined by how recently they were fried. The ripe bananas are flattened into a fritter and dipped in a sweet batter with black sesame seeds. At a price of 200riel (5 cents) each, you’d be hard pressed to find a cheaper snack when you do the weekly run for pirated DVDs at the Russian Market. This stand is open here every day and tends to stay open until they’ve sold all of their day’s bananas.

Location: Corner of St.135 and 432, near Psar Toul Tom Poung (Russian Market)